Governor's Harbor

4/2 - 4/3: Upon our departure this morning the crew of Ocean Explorer, a trimaran, challenged us to a race up to Governor's Harbor, to commence as soon as we were both finished running our engines to charge the refrigeration systems. At the time the gauntlet was laid down it looked as though we would have a beam reach up to Governor's Harbor. On a beam reach Ocean Explorer would smoke us. In fact, the wind went a little north so that it was a beat all the way. ADAGIO could point so much higher to the wind that they called on the radio after two hours and threw in the towel. Other boats that were out on the water that day and headed in our general direction also opted for a boost from the iron genny. We persisted and got into port only a little after Ocean Explorer, even though they motored most of the way.


Two sides of the same sign on the causeway between Governor's Harbor and Cupid's Cay.

The houses at Governor's Harbor are spilling down the hillside to houses and shops on the rocks ringing the harbors. This could easily be a New England town when viewed from a distance. Up close the architecture and pastel colors give it away.

Governor's Harbor has several anchorages. If you are willing to move around with the passing fronts then you can find protection from any direction. During our stay here there were only three or four other crusing boats. Again, we are surprised by the paucity of interest by cruisers. Everyone prefers the beaten path in the Exumas and the crowds they grew accustomed to in George Town.

From our anchorage between Cupid's Cay and Laughing Bird Cay we could see this church and the public library. We picked up a mooring. I dove on the mooring and the chain to the ball looked a little questionable so we rove a line down to the eye on the cement block on the bottom. If the town maintained these moorings, added a few more and promoted itself then I'm sure it would become more popular with cruisers.

On our first evening we went for a walk to the Atlantic Ocean side with the crew from Ocean Explorer. In the dark we came upon the Club Med abandoned after Hurrican Floyd. From our vantage point it looked as though folks had just left yesterday and the place was still largely intact. The boutique was still lighted and filled with clothes and gifts. There was an air conditioner running in an office somewhere, but there wasn't a soul about. It was truly surreal. We resolved to go back the next day for further investigations.

The morning dawned bright and beautiful. On the BASRA weather net it sounded like 50+ boats would be headed across to Florida. The Club Med is indeed closed and they don't want any visitors. With the kids in tow ADAGIO and Ocean Explorer returned to the Club Med site. Probably it was our tennis playing on their courts that got the security guard so pissed off. He even called in the Bahamas police. Chagrined and chastened in front of our sons we left the premises. The locals told us that the negotiations between Club Med and the government regarding support for reconstruction have been dragging on for years. In the meantime, some people have gone so long without regular paychecks that they will soon lose their homes to the banks.

	The top photo is a view of the Club Med from the beach. The lower picture is from the athletic grounds on the interior of the club. In spite of being closed for a number of years, the resort is in good shape. If the Club Med execs dither long enough then I'm sure it will go the way of the resort down at Cape Eleuthera.

After the Club Med misadventure Wendy and I walked out to the organic fruit and vegetable farm while Johnson and the boys returned to the beach. If you have any interest in truck farming and gardening then a visit to the farm is a must. The owners are young, hard working and personable. Prior to running the farm they had been cruisers and still keep their sailboat in Eleuthera. Their produce goes to the restaurants in Nassau and Harbor Island. They would like to see more economic vitality in the area and have tried to teach some of the local farmers how to grow and market their produce to the restaurant trade, without much success.

	To close out the day I walked around Cupid Cay. The cruising guide has a very romantic description of this little island: Eighteenth and nineteenth century traditional Bahamian architecture shaded by tall swaying casuarina trees. Unfortunately, the recent hurricanes have flattened everything on Cupid Cay, trees and buildings alike. Rather than restore the old buildings they have just been allowed to fall down or have been knocked down to be replaced by new structures. These two buildings are about all that's left from former times.

	This church on Cupid Cay I thought was very attractive. I don't know its vintage.