The Intracoastal Waterway

10/16  Before proceeding south today we had to stop for fuel.  The line at the fuel dock presaged the traffic we would find on the waterway once we got started.  The ICW officially starts at Red "36" in Norfolk.  From there on the city is quite industrial; more Navy ships and civilian ocean going vessels line the shore.  We have decided to go down the Dismal Swamp Canal since there is a considerable number of powerboats headed for the C&A Canal route.  The power boaters often rocket by the sailboats leaving them rocking and rolling. The Dismal Swamp should be more peaceful.

The lock at the northern end of the canal is at Deep Creek and we found ourselves in the lock with eight other sailboats.  This is partly due to the number of boats headed south and the fact that the lock only opens four times per day so the boats get bunched up.  We decided to break the trip at the North Carolina Visitor's Center.  One can tie up here overnight.  There is no water or electricity, but it is a safe place to stop. There were 8 boats that saw the wisdom of this stopping point. The Center has planted plots of peanuts, tobacco, corn, and cotton so Diana has gotten a science lesson today.  In fact, she harvested some of the cotton and peanuts as souvenirs of her visit.

10/17 - 10/18 Today we finished the trip down the canal to Elizabeth City.  The bunching of boats occurred again today at the South Mills Lock.  There were 12 of us in the lock at once!

A view down the canal.	The N.C. Visitors' Center
A long way to go from here!	South Mills Lock

Our plan was to spend just the night in Elizabeth City, taking advantage of the free dockage and the hospitality of the Rose Buddies.  The Rose Buddies was started in the 1980's by two retired southern gents.  They would greet boaters coming down the ICW to Elizabeth City each day at 5 PM with a rose for the women and a glass of wine for the men.  The clouds and evening chill put a damper on things on 10/17, but hey it's the thought that counts.

The welcome mat.	In the 19th century this was the Farmers' Bank in town.  It is now a law office.  Looks like it belongs in the mission district of a Texas or California city.
	Diana and Maria were given this rose by the Buddies.

When cruising, the plan always needs adjusting.  On 10/18 we awoke to FOG.  Not wishing to repeat our D.C. experience we decided to stay in port, as did almost all of the 15 other boats that are here with us.  We did some sightseeing and bought a one day family membership in the town's health center.  The Rose Buddy reception this evening included a couple of guitars brought along by other cruisers and a large crowd of boaters delayed by the fog.

10/19 Today the weather was crystal clear with a nice breeze from the NE.  We sailed wing and wing down the river and across the Albemarle Sound to the mouth of the Alligator River.  At that point the wind died and we had to motor up river (but headed south) for the last half of the trip.  We anchored at Bear Point for the night planning to enter the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal in the AM.

10/20 Well, as I've said, cruising plans are made to be changed.  As we entered the canal there was north bound tug emerging from the morning mist.  We hailed him to make sure that we all knew how we would pass each other.  The captain informed us that the Fairfield Bridge would not be opening until 6:30 PM!  Hmm.  We'll be spending the day on the mill pond stillness of the northern end of the canal. There don't seem to be any homes on shore.  Not surprising since this end of the Alligator River is in a big cypress swamp.

Sunrise at Bear Point on the northern end of the Aligator - Pungo River Canal.